Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Being an American Japanese-American


I have been musing lately about the process I went through mentally as I became acclimated and genuinely happy here in Japan.  

I recall the months leading up to our move here had me wracked with doubt and fear and confusion.  Would I be accepted?  Would I remember the language well enough or quickly enough?  Would I do something unforgivably gaijin that it would bring shame on my mother and my mother's mother and my aunts and uncles who have to claim me as family?  Would I be an outcast for not being Japanese enough?  Would I FAIL here?

After so many years of being seemingly disconnected from the things that made me Japanese (my mom, her food, speaking Japanese with her, her guilt trips, etc.), I was starting to wonder if what she said about me was true.  That I really had "become SO American."  That I was only living up to half of who I truly was, or worse yet, had lost half of my self altogether.  

I came here terrified.  One would think Hubby would have struggled and feared far more.  But in my eyes, he had so many reasons and excuses not to have a clue what was going on.  The Japanese look fondly, for the most part, upon the gaijin who are trying their best and simply making mistakes along the way.  If you've never been exposed to Japanese language or culture, it's okay that you simply don't know any better.  The effort to combat one's ignorance is appreciated here, so if you're a gaijin who actually DOES speak some Japanese or enjoys the food or knows what an "ohinasama" is, you're looked upon with even more fondness.

But me?  I can't really play the gaijin card.  Or so I thought.  After all, every time I had been in Japan before, I looked and spoke and acted enough like a Japanese girl that my American-ness was never a focal point.  I had a Japanese passport. I had a Japanese name.  I had a Japanese mom helping me along.  I was one-of-them-ish enough.

Also, being in my own skin in America for so long, I didn't ever think of what my visage would be to the natives here this time around.

Then I arrived.  As an American.

I am easily 6 inches taller (or more) than almost every person here, male and female.  My eyes are bigger.  My skin is different.  My build is bulkier.  I walk differently.

The Japanese here look at me, and see a gaijin.  So much so, in fact, that they are shocked when I begin speaking relatively clean, accent-less Japanese with them.  ANY Japanese at all.  I can't count how many times I have been asked how I learned to speak it so well.  When I say my mother is Japanese, people act baffled.  When I tell a stranger my name is Michiko, there is almost always (however slight) momentary shock on his or her face.  

After all my stress and worry, it turns out this time around, I get the same excuse card that all the non half-breed American's do.  I'm a gaijin this time.  

For a time, that really bothered me.  It shook me to have to redefine my own sense of Japanese identity.  As a child I didn't even know I was a mix.  I just thought I was a Japanese person with an American dad who spoke American English and understood American culture.  It took me far longer than it should have to consciously understand that racially/ethnically, I was also a mix of those two nationalities.  Even once I figured it out, there was pride to be found in having both elements of my heritage.  Never being quite pigeon holed as just an American because I had my Japanese side to make me "unique."  I always focused on what made me different as a person.  I treasured being different.  And to me, "different" was just another word for "Japanese."

Having all of that rocked... I found myself wondering, "what now?"  What if they were right?  What if I wasn't Japanese anymore?

Then I realized from the moment I stepped off the plane at Narita, I had begun semi-sheepishly bowing and over arigato-ing and hyper sumimasen-ing toward nearly everyone I met.  The instinctual gestures and phrases and expressions of begging one's pardon at every turn hadn't faded from my subconscious.  As soon as they were necessary, they were there at the forefront with a vengeance.  Constantly apologizing for my daughter's behavior the second she made a sound or ran where she wasn't supposed to.  Trying to excuse myself and make amends for every thing I didn't know or couldn't pronounce.  Showing whatever gratitude I could for every second of anyone's time that was spent on helping me in any way. Remaining ever aware of every older person nearby so as to show proper respect for their mere existence; as if my consciousness of their wisdom was programmed into what kind of eye contact I made with them.  

As American as I am on the outside, inside, in all the inexplicable microscopic ways, I am still incredibly Japanese.  

And, within a short span of time, the external manifestations began reappearing.  My "don't touch that" was soon a "sawaranaide chodai!" and my "hurry up" was a "hayaku oide."  Shopping in Japan with my kiddo has been a fast acting catalyst for certain phrases in my mind to shake themselves free of the cobwebs.  With every day that goes by, I remember a little bit more.  My vocabulary is returning, and some days, even expands a bit.  For example, now I know what a chushaken is.  I didn't need to know that as a kid.  :)  Though the language hasn't come back as quickly as it used to when I was a child, it IS coming back.  I run into roadblocks and misunderstandings and issues reading kanji all the time.  But I haven't lost everything.  In fact, five months into living here, I realize I have actually lost almost NOTHING linguistically.

What's more thrilling, however, is the fact my culture is coming back.  In small ways, in subtle moments of guilt or the incessant desire to buy gifts for everyone who has shown me any kindness at all, I am rediscovering what has been true all along.  I am Japanese.

And, I'm also American.  

If I stay true to the part of me who revels in being different, perhaps here it is simply a matter of redefining the word for myself.

Friday, February 1, 2013

Snow in Sasebo


While this winter hasn't shown us a lot of snow, there were a few times when a flurry or two graced us, and with our scenic mountain and rice paddy backdrop, we enjoyed the experience.  Aria especially. 

The first time, it was bright and sunny with extra light snowflakes that were all but gone before they even hit the ground.  With the sunlight and the strangely bright surroundings, I couldn't help feeling an extra sense of wonderment.  Like we were being sprinkled with powdered sugar.  The warm happy feeling of the sunshine-snowfall combo made up for how truly frigid and windy it actually was outside.



About a month later we had a more significant snow overnight, and woke up to this. 


But it disappeared even faster than it came, because as the day progressed, the sun bore down and took all the snow away by mid-afternoon.  Save for one strange snow pile, about 2 feet in length and 6 inches in width, which stuck around in our side yard for several more days, providing Aria with one special area to stomp with her little rubber boots. :)



Ureshino Onsen & Omura Waterfall


Two Saturdays ago we decided to quell our desire to visit an "onsen" or hot spring resort by going to Ureshino.  There, we heard there was an onsen where English speakers would be easily assisted.  

We made it to Ureshino itself, thanks to GoogleMaps' GPS guidance, but finding the onsen itself took a while longer.  Twice in five minutes, we found ourselves needing to turn around, and both times, we used a big dirt truck lot to do so.  We thought nothing of his, until the second time a cross looking Japanese man approached us and said rather sternly, his arms forming an X in front of him, "dame da yo," or "you can't do that."  I apologized, and we went on our way.  At first I was embarrassed and sad, but then, I was irked.  This country is NOT easy to navigate, the majority of the roads are NOT marked clearly or named at all, so really, I can't imagine what else we as lost foreigners were supposed to do.   

In any case, we finally found the onsen with some help from Google, and once we arrived were pleased to discover the pricing was very reasonable.  We were able to get an onsen plus lunch package for only 2,700 yen per adult.


 The food was very tasty, with a leanness and healthiness that made us feel extra alive and revitalized.  Among the offerings was onsen-dofu, which is a special silken tofu that sits in hot spring water and boils, dissolving as it does so.  The resulting soup is a white broth with a soy milky, slightly rice-y taste to it.  I was a fan, though I wouldn't necessarily eat several bowls of it in one sitting.  But I have to admit I felt strangely refreshed and energetic after eating it.


Once done with our food, we headed to the bathing area, where we found out there were separate bathing areas for men and women.  You'd think I would have remembered something like that.  But I had forgotten this detail from my childhood visits to the onsen, especially since some of them are in fact co-ed.  Forced to adapt, we just agreed to meet up in an hour or so.

Once Aria and I were stripped down and rinsed off, we headed outside to the outdoor onsen pool.  It was very chilly outside, but the water was incredibly toasty, so the combination was rather refreshing.  The best part, however, was that the outside bathing pool was filled with hot TEA!  Yes, tea.  I don't know if it was oolong or green or some combination but whatever it was, it felt and smelled so very relaxing.  There were even green tea bags that one could soak in the hot water and then place on one's face to detoxify the skin.  I swear the bags under my eyes were less pronounced for several days afterward.

Hubby's experience was a bit different, as he has tattoos, which are still frowned upon by many people in this country.  He said he got avoided as he moved from bathing pool to bathing pool, until one kind gentleman came and chatted with him and simply explained it was a cultural thing.  Nevertheless Hubby still says he enjoyed the onsen experience itself, and that in the future all we need to do is get a private onsen for a slightly higher price and enjoy the bath in peace, without judgment.

Finished and satisfied with our hot spring adventure, we drove toward Omura, which Hubby claimed was beautiful and worth seeing.  On the way we saw a sign pointing toward a waterfall, so we decided on the short detour.  Turned out to be well worth it, because while it wasn't especially big or grand, the pleasant little waterfall was surrounded by boulders and rocks we could climb and sit on.  So we spent some time enjoying the view, communing with nature, and rescuing Aria's stuffed kitty cat from the water into which it was dropped accidentally.

Here are some pictures.   Please enjoy.





Hubby conquering and reveling in nature.



And here is a picture from Omura where we stopped for dinner.